Reese’s heir criticizes Hershey’s new chocolate recipe

Chocolate is about cocoa butter, not vegetable oil

Brad Reese’s recent criticism of Hershey’s decision to replace cocoa butter with vegetable oils in some products strikes a chord with us as craftspeople. In artisan chocolate-making, the way ingredients interact defines flavor, texture, and mouthfeel. Cocoa butter is the binder that gives chocolate its character; vegetable oils do not serve this role.

Hershey’s 2027 timeline for recipe changes likely reflects business decisions focused on cutting costs and scaling production. But from a craft perspective, it’s a step backward. Cocoa butter melts at body temperature, providing that smooth finish unique to real chocolate. Replacing it with cheaper oils fundamentally alters this experience.

For a small family workshop like Atelier de Bruijn, working with single-origin cacao and hand-poured bonbons, such substitutions are unthinkable. We rely on the pure quality of our raw materials and craftsmanship to create an honest product that stays true to cacao’s origin and offers genuine flavor.

This news reminds us why we stick to traditional techniques and ingredients. Big brands might save money, but for artisans, respect for the product and consumer is paramount. Choosing real cocoa butter is a deliberate decision, not an automatic one.

We watch these developments closely but remain committed to chocolate defined by pure taste and texture — something only achieved with care, time, and the right ingredient.

Source: Reese’s heir blasts Hershey’s 2027 chocolate recipe timeline